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Author Topic: searching for a natural emulsfier i think ??!  (Read 1218 times)
dumbskate
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« on: April 23, 2008, 04:54:49 am »

Removed for personal peace of mind  Cheesy
« Last Edit: April 28, 2008, 01:08:57 am by dumbskate » Logged
DrYechiel
President, Elsom Research Co., Inc --- Scientific Editor, Journal of Topical Formulations
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2008, 03:09:18 am »

Hello,

I wish you had selected a different user name.

Colophony is actually rosin, which is not significantly water-soluble nor does it form stable solutions in oil. However, it is soluble in some solvents and some aromatic oils which have some characteristics of solvents. To explain what happened to your experiment:

1.   Grapefruit oil has some solvent characteristics though it is a very mild essential oil for skin when used in low concentrations.
2.   Grapefruit oil does not contain pectin.

Pectin is water-soluble and in order to use pectin you have to first solubilize or emulsify the rosin in water because pectin itself is not a very effective emulsifier. Pectin is not soluble in oil.

What happened is that the essential oil of grapefruit helped solubilizing (not emulsifying) the rosin or helped keep it in a soluble form. If you used a very high percentage of grapefruit oil, it may be too strong to use on skin. On the other hand, if you use a very small percentage of grapefruit oil, it is possible that the rosin will not dissolve or maintained in a soluble form.

As for the palm oil, it is a very rich oil, especially if you use the unrefined version. The main problem is that it has a lot of trans-fatty acids. It is not a problem in a topical and may actually have certain benefits, but it is still better to use it as a mixture with low trans-fatty acid edible oils. If you intend to consume it orally, you should use it sparingly and base your oil consumption on oils with low-trans fatty acids.

I hope that I clarified the issue for you.
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Elishalom Yechiel, Ph.D
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dumbskate
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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2008, 03:24:14 am »

Removed for personal peace of mind  Cheesy
« Last Edit: April 28, 2008, 01:09:26 am by dumbskate » Logged
dumbskate
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2008, 03:46:31 am »

Removed for personal peace of mind  Cheesy
« Last Edit: April 28, 2008, 01:09:50 am by dumbskate » Logged
DrYechiel
President, Elsom Research Co., Inc --- Scientific Editor, Journal of Topical Formulations
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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2008, 03:10:58 am »

Hello,

Your further details allow for some better options. If you could explain the proportions of the original balm, it will help to give you several alternative options that will result in a balm very similar to the original one. I understand that the rosin was 30%. How much coconut oil and butter were in the balm? Were there any other ingredients?

If the butter and coconut oil were about the same percentage (35% each), my advice is that you should replace them with a combination of cocoa butter and mango butter (you can also use refined shea butter instead of the mango butter). Use a mixture of approximately 30% of cocoa butter and 40% of mango butter and 30% rosin. I will refer further in this post to the combination of coco butter plus mango butter as the “base”. As I indicated before, use 70% of the base and 30% rosin. Don’t melt them on an open fire but boil water in a large pot and than add the base and the rosin together into a smaller pot and insert the smaller pot into the large pot. Make sure that:

1.   You don’t fill more than about half the small pot with the base and rosin.
2.   The water level in the large pot should cover the small pot enough so that the material inside will be well exposed to the boiling water via the wall of the small pot.
3.   Make sure that the water in the large pot is boiling gently so that it does not splatter into the small pot.

Mix well after the content of the small pot is melted, and make sure that it has completely melted. Take the small pot out of the large pot and keep mixing until the content starts to solidify and the mixing becomes difficult. When you take the small pot out of the large pot you can add (if you so prefer) an essential oil of your choice into the mixture. Whether you add the essential oil or not will not affect the stability of the balm as long as you don’t add more than 5% essential oil. When mixing becomes difficult, proceed with cooling the content of the small pot (you can put it in the refrigerator for 30-60 minutes) and than leave it at room temperature overnight. The balm you will get will be stable and it’s not likely that the rosin will crystallize. Don’t add the essential oil when the materials are melting in the hot water but only after you take out the small pot from the boiling water.

If the proportions of the oils in the original balm were not 35% each, please let me know and I will re-assess the protocol.

I hope this helps.
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Elishalom Yechiel, Ph.D
www.elsomresearch.com * skincare nanotechnologies
www.new-equilibrium-skincare.com/cosmeceuticals  * retail cosmeceuticals
www.the-formulator.com * personalized cosmeceuticals
www.topical-formulations.com * the Journal
www.nanosomin.com/news * the Blog
dumbskate
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« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2008, 03:39:18 am »

Removed for personal peace of mind  Cheesy
« Last Edit: April 28, 2008, 01:10:12 am by dumbskate » Logged
DrYechiel
President, Elsom Research Co., Inc --- Scientific Editor, Journal of Topical Formulations
Subject-Matter Expert
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Posts: 53



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« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2008, 04:41:22 am »

Hello,

Sure, please send email to me at  "innovation" at "elsomresearch.com"
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Elishalom Yechiel, Ph.D
www.elsomresearch.com * skincare nanotechnologies
www.new-equilibrium-skincare.com/cosmeceuticals  * retail cosmeceuticals
www.the-formulator.com * personalized cosmeceuticals
www.topical-formulations.com * the Journal
www.nanosomin.com/news * the Blog
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