Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

[gaoli]

Dr Yechiel
I wondered what your opinion of Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans is.  I imagine they really don't have any long-term anti-aging effect, but from experience seriously plump up wrinkles in the short-term.

Here is an explanation I found for how they work.

"Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans - Used in hydrating cosmetics for their ability to increase depth hydration improving the elasticity and firmness of the skin. They have a smaller molecular structure that favors penetration into the outer epidermal layers. Leaves skin smooth and soft and minimizes depth and appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Glycosaminoglycans are easily accepted into the skin due to their high charge and affinity"

I remember reading on an MD led skincare site that 'highly charged' molecules could be damaging.  I'm afraid I can't remember the details and the information has since been deleted.

Do you think there's any truth in that?

Thanks, gaoli

[DrYechiel]

Hello, gaoli, and thank you for another interesting question.

Will try to respond next week.

[DrYechiel]

Hello Gaoli,

Glycosaminoglycans are very hygroscopic and can bind much water. If you hydrolyze them, their water binding will be reduced. High charge does not enhance skin penetration; if anything, highly-charged molecules have a hard time penetrating membranes which will apply for sliding between membranes as well. It is possible to fix that, but it is too much of a professional endeavor to lay it out in this format. I can say in short that it is possible to mask some of the charge and improve penetration. Of course, the nature of the charge and the pK of the molecules are important factors.

My hunch is that this is how the story progressed: Glycosaminoglycans were first injected under the skin and showed very good results in diminishing the appearance of wrinkles. Someone wanted to cash on the fame and glory and good public relations which accompanied this treatment, and used hydrolized glycosaminoglycans to explain why it can penetrate without injection to the skin, and in the process the charge of the molecule become an asset. Of course he forgot to omit the other good benefit of glycosaminoglycans which like water binding, and left the hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans to inherit that property as well. In conclusion: there is nothing wrong with topical use of glycosaminoglycans, in either intact or hydrolized form. It will enhance the texture of water-based topicals.